Shall We Gather At The River?

That would be the Ganges and not the Jordan. Varanasi is one of the oldest civilized cities in the world and just a short walk down to the Ganges from the old town will convince you of this, but more on that later.

This is an extremely important city in religious terms. There are four main pilgrimages that followers of Buddha make and one of the most important is here. Though Buddha was born in Nepal, he died in India and received enlightenment here in Varanasi, otherwise know as Banaras. Our guide Prim was very informative about the ways and means of Buddhism because of his teaching background. Through his voice and demeanor, he was able to convey the message in a way, a non converted such as myself could understand. I actually thought that we were sitting in the audience of a Buddhist Priest at a temple, who was conveying and teaching the message of patience and understanding.

The highlight of course is going down to the ghats at sunset, down to the Ganges, to witness the crematoriums where any faithful Hindu wants to be cremated. An extraordinary experience, we are transported by rickshaw, through the narrow and noisy passageways. By any other means other than foot would make it virtually impossible to navigate due to the sheer numbers of people crowding in the streets. The beggars, homeless, mentally and physically handicapped are everywhere. Dirty and dusty with cows wandering inpunitively. It is a cow patty bingo jamboree. Check out a picture below, where a cow is sitting in a clothing store, and no one makes any attempt to get rid of  it.  We have been fortunate to travel to many parts of the world but I have never, ever experienced anything like this. Click video

We arrive at the ghats or steps that lead down to the water's edge. Tourists, pilgrims and cow patties everywhere. Our first venture onto the Ganges was by rowboat where we would be rowed to witness one of  two crematoriums which are in use 24/7. I am able to take many pictures from afar but no videos or pictures up close out of respect for the dead. Fire wood piled high and smoke in the air, it takes up to three to six hours to burn a corpse before the remains are readied to be placed into the river. At this particular time there are about 10 cremations taking place. After the body is wrapped in a shroud, it is brought down to the river. It is then soaked in the water for cleansing, then placed on a wood pile, which is then lit by the chief mourner who circles the wood five times before lighting.

After some sombre reflection of the cremation ritual we headed back downstream to where the ceremonial blessing was being conducted. We light our "diyps" or candles and place them gently into the Ganges from our boat as we watch them flicker and quietly float away. See video

Fire, music and seven priests in training perform the ceremony which has been practiced for years but has only become popular on the tourist circuit over the past 15. Truly a spectacle and the people watching was phenomenal. An absolute nirvana for any photographer and a million photos to be had. I had to make a “donation” to take some of my pics but well worth the price of admission. I apologize for all my pics but it it a dilemma to decide which ones go to the cutting room floor.See video.

A trip to a silk manufacturer was inspiring. The exceptional craftsmanship was paramount  but the primitive working conditions were something out of early 19th century Britain. The colours and textures were simply beyond reproach. Though the work was painstaking, the prices were exceptionally cheap. Undervalued workmanship deserved so much more for the products being produced.

The following morning and another 5 am wake up call and it was back down to the river for the sunrise. The surroundings were quite a bit quieter at this time of day, as we passed quietly by the many souls sleeping on the sidewalks covered by blankets to keep out the chill. It was fascinating to watch devout Hindu men and women alike, take part in a spiritual cleansing wash and swim in the Ganges. It was again filled with fabulous picture opportunities. The air was cool and fresh and the experience invigorating. Men were washing garments as well as bedding and laying them out to dry on the ghats. Breakfast was on a roof top terrace, overlooking the Ganges. For the dawning of a new day it was well worth the effort to make the early morning rise. Click on video immediately below

I came to India for the Taj Mahal but I would return for Varanasi. Namaste.

A Love Story for the Ages

Following the death of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, after having just given birth to their 14^th child, the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan decided to build the Taj Mahal or Jewel of the Palace in loving dedication of her memory. It took 22 years and 20,000 workers to complete this magnificent tribute, whose dome is described as being shaped like a teardrop. Constructed of marble, brought in from over 200 miles away, the intricate inlay work was done by Iranian artisans and the grunt work was carried out by native Muslims and Hindus.

Two things strike me. Personally it is a spiritual experience to be here. I feel an emotional sense of both piece and excitement as we stroll  the stone walkways by the reflection pools toward the iconic dome. Secondly, of all the pictures I have seen, none express the sheer largesse, as we are dwarfed in the shadows of the arches and white marble  facades. We are truly blessed to have been able to come here just this one time and I would relish the opportunity to return time and again. Note : Please click on video below

Agra is also home to The Agra Fort. Another fortress constructed of sandstone, whose construction took place over the reign of three emperors.  It actually was a residence for the reigning rulers, as opposed to the Taj, which was strictly a monument. In order to prevent intruders, it was surrounded by two moats. The first had water with crocodiles swimming about it, and if you were lucky enough to get by the first, the second moat was occupied by roaming tigers.

We also paid a quick homage to Mother Teresa’s orphanage. Housing both children and mentally ill adults, we were requested not to take pictures for obvious reasons. I can assure you that not only are the residents well taken care of, their facilities are far superior to what they would encounter on the outside.

As a foot note, this city of Agra was the birthplace of Vikram Indira. He was both a chemist and a sexual therapist. He discovered a miracle sexual healing drug which became known as the sexual healing drug of Vikram Indira of Agra. Later it was shortened to V.I. from Agra and finally the generic drug name of Viagra was settled on. Just kidding. :)

On to Varinesa and the Ganges. Namaste. 

PS My good friend Marcelle who is travelling with us tells me that Namaste actually means "I bow to the divine in you"