I sit here on my sunbed with what appears to be the Russian female heavy weight wresting team and start composing my thoughts. Kovalam is a beach destination for tourists and Indians alike. We were wondering a few weeks ago where all the backpackers were and I think we have caught up with them. I can`t get over how rude and piggish some of the tourists are towards the locals, who for the most part are quiet, polite, most unassuming and neither brash or loud.
With a high of 34 Celsius, we have three beaches to choose from. None of them world class by my standards and they are also overcrowded and small in comparison, to anything we have previously experienced. One of them has a mosque on it, with upwards of 30 busloads per day bringing in school children and locals on day trips. No need for a wake up call at this hotel, as every morning at 05:30 the call to prayers go out. Click on this video of afternoon call to prayers, for what is a similar experience in the early am.
Usually it is Jennifer who wants to change rooms, but in this case I was the exception. I swear the loudspeaker blaring AAAAllllliiiiii MMMMMaaaana......................AAAAlllllliiiiii MMMMMMMaaaaana.....REPEAT thrice more, was no more than 300 metres from our nicely appointed room. Note to Self: never book a garden view here. After some negotiations and complimentary internet thrown in for good measure, an ocean view was secured and we moved in for the second of six nights.
The local scene is very interesting and picturesque. Small fishing canoes dot the horizon at night, appearing like a city in the distance, only to disappear by morning light. By my calculations, one catch I witnessed, appeared to be about 50 small fish, selling for about 750 rupees, which would probably work out to about 30 cents per fish. The guy who helped the fisherman bring in the boat, got a fish for his efforts. Mussels appear to be in high supply as well. Bringing in the catch and the local negotiation on price beach side, each morning is a ritual I`m sure has been going on for generations.
The beaches are supposed to be public for all but the hotel security guard keeps whistling away any locals who would dare encroach on the beach in front of our hotel. There were definitely some heated exchanges between some of the locals and I found myself preparing to make a quick exit, in the event matters started to get out of hand. With two standards, it is no wonder there is resentment to westerners on the part of some of the population.
Fresh fish is the order of the day. Lobster can be had but our waiter, cook and owner of the local establishment we are frequenting last night, explains the process. He will go down the hill via the unlit pathway which we used to get here and choose a lobster from underneath a rock, where he keeps a lobster pound in the sea. However we will have to wait 30 minutes. Option B is fresh White Snapper and four giant tiger prawns. Option B it is. Great dinner tonight as well. One of the most memorable settings we have ever experienced and the best Kingfisher meal to date. Wine was good too :) I wish we had more time to experience this area of Kovalam. I think we have missed sometime very special here but was unaware of it`s existence.
Quietly I watch a fisherman disassemble his canoe which appears like a Lego puzzle of four tree trunks, dug out and bound together by nylon cord and rope. Life is good for me. I hope they feel as good about themselves. Namaste.
No comments:
Post a Comment